Gibraltar 25-28 September 2008

Travel Outward
At 8:45 on the morning of the 25th the coach arrived in good time to create the maximum possible havoc with the school run. We sat in the rather too small seats of the Gatwick Flyer, on our way to Lakeside Shopping centre, a round about route across southern Essex, the countryside was beautiful on a sunny Autumn morning, it was not matched by the driver demeanor, but that was not directed at us. We picked up a few others, and changed to the airport shuttle at Lakeside. Without a care in the world we arrived at Gatwick, eagerly anticipating our two hour wait for the flight. The woman at the Easyjet check-in was friendly and cheerful, as we discussed the weather and the general lack of sunshine that we were belatedly escaping. The trip from the South Terminal to the North Terminal by automated train was uneventful, and not very crowded. The flight boarded and departed pretty much on-time. We managed to get seats in front of the wings - its more comfortable there. It also landed pretty much on time, and we cleared customs and retrieved our bags. Now to find a taxi. One indeterminate sign and one question at the information desk, and a quite long wait. We let the guy in front take the cab, and waited for the next. Then to the 'Rock Hotel'. Gibraltar is like England with a bit of a 60 & 70's feel, except that they drive on the right. We checked in and were directed to our room. The bags were already there. Probably the smoothest journey we ever has anywhere.

At 'The Rock'
The hotel is old, but has been updated well. There is the traditional fan in the room, but also air conditioning. We sat on our veranda listening to the traffic below for a good few minutes, and took a few pictures of the view. Then we went down stairs to the bar. The Rock ... "an oasis in a busy world". If you want to hurry, don't bother, might be another way of putting it, but we didn't want to hurry. The bar service was sluggish, even so, and the language difficult to understand. They speak English, or something spanishly close to it, and with heavy accents too. The food however was very good, even though the portions were a little small.
We watched the other guests - two wedding parties as it turned out, and relaxed.

Barbary Apes
More accurately Barbary Macaques. They are tail-less monkeys, not apes. The legend has it that Gibraltar will remain English until the Apes leave. We decided to go take a look. You can book a taxi that will take you to the 8 greatest tourist attractions on Gibraltar in 2.75 hours. Much too fast - you may get the unique insight of the driver, but you will miss so mush more. We bought a ticket for the cable car and went to the top. There are some picture of the 'apes' and the spectacular view from the top in the web album. The apes are not to be fed, and there are some excellent stories of people loosing ice creams, and getting bitten defending their property. The government feeds the apes, so the tourists don't have to. There are for or five family groups, depending on who you talk to. The one we saw were more interesting in getting their best side pictured than anything else. They were such posers! We wandered around the top station taking pictures and sitting in the restaurant, then decided to walk down to St Michael's cave.
After a slight diversion up to the ridge to an old battery (open by request, 24 hours notice required), and looked in at the decaying guns. Then back down. The cave is an amazing place, and too vast for my puny flash, so I have some black pictures. Its so large they hold concerts inside it. Entrance to the cave is £8 per person per day. This includes the other main attractions, which you can't possibly visit without being on the taxi tour. (Tourist rip off - just like England in the 60 & 70's and ...). We had lunch at the cafe next to the cave. Simple food and not badly priced.
After lunch we wandered the 2.4km to the down the side of the rock to the Siege Tunnels. The tunnel was carved through the chalk hill at the time of the siege of Gibraltar, one or two cannon still in place. There is also an excellent view of the airport runway from here. It starts in the Mediterranean, and ends in the bay of Gibraltar, no wonder the pilots brake sharply on landing!
Next stop the siege exhibition (where the taxis don't stop), which is out in the open air, but quite helpful in setting the scene.
After that on to the Moorish castle, and up to the top of its tower. Not very much information available on either of these things, no doubt relying on the tour guides. Then into the town, through the centre, and back to the hotel. Just time to wash the feet, and wander down to the bar, to sit on the veranda have a pint or two (only John Smiths) and a nice meal.

Thunder Storm
Awake for much of the night with an incredible thunderstorm, almost right overhead. Such a shame it was foggy and we couldn't see the lightening. In the morning there was only emergency power in the hotel. Breakfast in the almost dark. Hot food was still provided, and the shower had still worked, so not all bad.

Dolphins
The other 'thing to do' is visit the dolphins (not swim with them). On Saturday we set off into town and followed the map to a building site. We walked backward and forward, and backward and forward. Finally asked a waiter in a cafe who said they are now over the other side of town, and have been for 4 or 5 years!!! Not too much walking today, as we are quite stiff from all the down hill stuff yesterday, so it was on the bus. We booked our place on the boat. £20. Then you don't go to look at dolphins everyday. Now for some lunch, and somewhere to hide from the rain. After lunch we browsed the shops in the new marina, then boarded the boat. We went out along the Spanish coast, then turned and went back past Gibraltar. The Mediterranean evaporates and does not get enough water from the rivers to keep the water level up, so the Atlantic is constantly pouring in. The sea level in the med is 13 feet lower than in the Atlantic. so the boat owner says. We passed Gibraltar and travelled further east. Turning again, getting further south as we did so, and there were their fins. The dolphins come to see the boat. They swim along side, just ahead, and around the boat. They swim up-side-down, to watch the people on the boat. They jump out of the water and try to splash you. If you remember 'flipper'- these are better, and apparently more intelligent. They are so clearly enjoying themselves, and are most definitely showing off. They get in the boats wake and surf. Although we were only in their presence for a few minutes, I had a sense of something special, much more so that looking an ape in the eye.
After that some tea, and a bus (No. 3) to the other end of the Rock to Europa Point. The only lighthouse that Trinity House have outside of the British Isles. (Closed to the public) It's a desolate place, just the lighthouse, the mosque, and the bus stop. Then back to the hotel for another meal in the bar on the veranda.

Homeward bound
Something must be wrong! Another uneventful journey that ran pretty much to time.

A great few days, both relaxing and tiring at the same time.

Minor Annoyances
Having to ask for Tea and Coffee at breakfast two mornings, after having already ordered it, and being told by one of the staff "I don't do Tea"
The cobweb in the corner of the Hotel room
The tourist 'rip-off'
The 4 year old map provided only on request
The general lack of sign posts and directions
... and that's as bad as it got!

Speculation
Gibraltar is going to become another Monaco! There is loads of development, and its all aimed at the yatch owner, and those who can afford houses by the waterfront.